With so many vintage-inspired jewellery reproductions circulating online and at local vintage markets, it’s important to know exactly what you’re buying. Few things are more disappointing than purchasing a piece labelled vintage jewellery, only to later discover it’s a modern reproduction.
Adding to the confusion, the 1990s saw a surge in jewellery reproductions inspired by mid-century and earlier periods. Because the 1990s are now over 20 years ago, many of these reproduction pieces technically qualify as vintage today. Some are beautifully made and absolutely worth collecting and wearing, but they are not the same as true mid-century vintage jewellery.
In this guide, we share five easy tips to help you identify authentic vintage jewellery, and how to tell the difference between a mid-century original and a modern or later reproduction.
1. Check the back or clasp for a maker’s mark
Jewellery produced in the mid-twentieth century was often signed by the manufacturer. Turn the piece over and look for a maker’s mark or signature, typically stamped on the back or clasp. Well-known names to look out for include Trifari, Monet, Coro, and Barcs, all respected designers associated with quality vintage costume jewellery.
2. Examine the metal finish closely
If the piece is gold-tone or silver-tone, look carefully for signs of wear. Has the plating worn away? Can you see the base metal underneath? Throughout the 20th century, jewellers often used high-quality gold or silver plating, resulting in pieces that have aged exceptionally well. Many authentic vintage jewellery pieces show little to no tarnish, even decades later — so don’t feel you need to compromise on quality if you can avoid it.
3. Consider the weight and construction
Authentic vintage jewellery, particularly pieces produced in the mid to late 20th century, are often heavier and more substantial than many modern reproductions. Later reproductions are frequently lighter and thinner in construction. While this can be harder to assess when shopping online, don’t hesitate to ask me (or the seller) for details or check their reviews and product descriptions for reassurance before purchasing.
4. Look at how the stones are set
High-quality vintage jewellery is typically prong set, rather than glued, which helps secure stones over time. The crystals should remain clear and bright, not cloudy or discoloured. Many 20th-century vintage pieces feature crystals made in Austria, including Swarovski, renowned for their exceptional quality and durability — materials that have truly stood the test of time.
5. Consider the size and fit
Many mid-century jewellery pieces were made smaller than modern standards. Necklaces were often set at around 16.5 inches (approximately 42 cm), while bracelets typically measured 7.5 inches (approximately 19 cm). As wrist and neck sizes have generally increased over time, it’s important to measure yourself before buying online, or try the piece on if you’re shopping at a market. If a piece feels too small, you may want to explore later 20th-century vintage jewellery, which was often produced in more generous proportions.
Ultimately, the key to confidently purchasing authentic vintage costume jewellery is understanding these simple key differences. With such a rich abundance of vintage costume jewellery available to wear and collect, knowing what to look for allows you to buy with confidence and intention.
If you’d like to deepen your knowledge, I published a book a few years ago that’s still available to purchase here. It also includes a few insider tips on scarves and bags, thoughtful additions for anyone interested in building a well-rounded vintage wardrobe.